Monday, March 27, 2017

CHARLIE - The Clever Bomber Jacket Pattern


Jalie needed a new jacket pattern. Something that would work for all our sizes. A bomber jacket was the obvious choice since we see them everywhere, from hip kids stores to classy women's wear collections.

Boucle knit with black ribbing over a dress made
with ballet leotard pattern 3349 (we cut just above the leg opening and lengthened!)

Say hello to Charlie, our bomber jacket pattern designed for girls and women but that makes the cutest jacket for boys too!

Henri loves his Charlie jacket made of three different sweatshirt fleece!
Black front, charcoal grey back, heathered grey sleeves with striped ponte collar, cuffs and band.

To Line or Not to Line? 

Lining makes drafting so easy. No need to worry about how the pockets look inside, no need to figure out how to get a clean finish where the zipper meets the collar. At the beginning we were leaning towards the lined jacket idea...

However, for a knit jacket, you need a knit lining, which can be difficult to find with the right stretch and recovery. A lining that stretches too much can be a nightmare. Minus one for lining.
Jacket made with quilted knit front and back, striped jersey collar, cuffs, hem bands and pockets and stretch pleather sleeves. Worn over our 3245 racerback tank in a Art Gallery printed jersey knit

Furthermore, there are many knits with a super soft back (like this fleece from l'Oiseau that simply cannot be covered with a lining!). When wearing the jacket over a tank or t-shirt you don't want to touch a cold lining...  When putting on the jacket to get back from the gym, you would not want a silky lining sticking to your arms either.

So that was it: no lining!

More work for Jeanne, less fabric to buy for you. The drafting challenge was ON!

We know some of you will want a lined jacket for a cleaner finish inside. Don't worry, it's easier than you think! Go to the Filles à Maman's blog where Mel not only lined the Charlie, but also made it REVERSIBLE. Her post features the cutest printed sweatshirt fleece from l'Oiseau Fabrics too!


We wanted to avoid what I like to call "mitt pockets"... you know, when you unzip your jacket but cannot really put your hands in your pockets because they stick out like mittens? Taking the pocket in the seam allowance in the front or at the bottom made corners that were too thick... So Jeanne came up with a fun, "rainbow" pocket.

Charlie Jacket prototype in our smallest size - We used stretch twill / denim for front, back and pockets, fleece for the sleeves and ponts for the cuffs, collar and hem band.
The whole pocket is made with one piece of fabric (welt, facing and the pocket back itself)! No tiny piece to fiddle with, no "mitt pockets"! For best results, pick a fabric that you can press too, your welt will look better ;)

A picture is worth a thousand words

Look at this perfect pocket welt (a photo Mel took just before topstitching):

Pocket welt close up - More photos on the Filles à Maman blog

Fabric and Notions

Making a jacket requires a few more things than a t-shirt. To make the Charlie Bomber Jacket, you will need:



Main Fabric
  • Stable knit is super easy to work with and is quite easy to find in fabric stores. Look for scuba, double knit, sweater knit, beefy knits, sweatshirt fleece that do not have toooo much stretch (if you want a jacket with some structure of course).
  • If you use contrast fabric for the back, it will show a bit in the front because of the forward shoulder seam. It becomes a fun element that allows you to finish some fabric remnants that are too short for a front+back!
  • Make sure your sleeve fabric is comfortable, especially for kiddos. Mine prefer sweatshirt fleece to "cold knits" like polyester knits. This jacket is the perfect pattern to up-cycle an old pair of sweatpants (or buy sweatpants or a sweatshirt in plus sizes at a department store and you get super-soft fleece for your jacket sleeves AND matching ribbing!!!) I love the pleather look, but not all pleathers were created equal! Make sure it is nice and soft. You don't want cardboard sleeves!
  • For the front, have fun with a statement fabric! 
  • For kids, we did make it a few times using stretch woven. It works for adults too, but might require alterations if you usually do full-bust adjustment.


Cuffs, hem band and collar
  • Ribbing is what works best (especially for the collar, ribbing "opens up" and stays closer to the neck).
  • If you cannot find ribbing in local fabric stores and don't want to buy it online,  you can use a knit with some weight to it and good stretch across the grain like ponte or a medium weight jersey knit. 
Zipper
Molded plastic zipper with metallic finish
  • In a perfect world, zippers would come in 1/4'' (6mm) increments. They don't. Since we cannot grade our jackets to have 2'' (5 cm) increments in length you will have to cut your zipper (or shorten your pattern a bit, or cheat and leave a space at the top or bottom).
  • If you want your zipper to start and end where it is supposed to, you will need zipper stops (and pliers to remove zipper teeth). 
  • Zipper stops are super cheap so go ahead a buy a pack and you will be equipped to fix/shorten any zippers in your sewing career :) (this includes replacing broken zipper pull on jackets - I'm sharing this because it saved me so much time when Éléonore came home with a broken zip pull and I didn't want to replace the zipper on it!)
  • Metal zipper cannot be shortened. If you like the look of metal and don't want to alter your pattern, look for plastic zippers in metallic color like the metaluxe zipper from YKK





Iron-On Patches
  • A low-cost solution to add fun and personality to a jacket. Save on the fabric (go with a versatile lower-cost solid knit you will have other uses for) and let your child pick his/her favorite iron-on patches! You can find cool iron-patches in some craft stores but it is online that you will have the best selection (at reasonable prices too!)
Tons of patches available on eBay!



Who is Charlie? 


I've always loved the sky and anything that flies, especially big noisy planes. When Top Gun came out in 1986, I HAD to see it!

110 minutes of fighter jets, perms and aviator looks... dubbed in French. An instant classic! I was hooked and dreamed to be as cool as Charlie when I grew up. I wanted to be an astrophysicist and civilian Top Gun instructor, nothing less! Today I have the big curly hair and sported the side-part bob a few years during high school, but I didn't turn out to be a pilot or an astrophysicist :)

However, I have everything I need to pull off her jacket + pencil skirt look! Charlie is the perfect name for this jacket and on top of that it's a unisex name, suiting for this pattern that works for boys too!

(Hmmm... I wonder if I could use the footed PJ pattern and these perfect iron-on patches to make Frédéric a Maverick jumpsuit to match my Charlie outfit for Halloween...) :)




Ready to sew?

  • Grab your sewing pattern in paper or PDF format (the pattern is layered so you can print one size at a time and also include a copy shop version)
  • Take a look at our inspiration board to get some ideas for fabric shopping!



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Thursday, September 15, 2016

How to Color Block a Leotard

Last year you bought a gymnastics leotard pattern with classic, plain front for your daughter. Like easy-to-make 3138. However, this season, after browsing on Pinterest for a little too long, she found THE leotard. The style every cool kid at the gym is begging their mom to buy (or make). A beautiful two-tone leo with a bright, oddly-shaped appliqué between the two colours.



You look online but obviously cannot find a pattern with the exact same cut your daughter has been dreaming about. The solution? Draw on your pattern and cut!

Yes. You can do it.

It is actually much easier than it sounds. You will not have to buy another pattern or a RTW leotard!

Mel Henry from Filles à Maman (who is also a Super Mom to a stylish teen) shows you how to do that. A step by step color-blocking tutorial, with lots of beautiful photos. Take a look, find your craziest fabrics to mix and match and have fun!



Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Mini-Catalog

We recently shared this mini-catalog on our Facebook page and it was a big hit. I thought it might be a good idea to post it here so everyone can flip through the pages.

To save the catalog in PDF format that you can view offline, click the OPEN button. You will see an option to save as PDF:

Also, we linked every photo to it's pattern page on the website to make your shopping faster and easier. We will include a printed copy of this mini-catalog with every shipment too so you can share it with sewing friends, coaches or keep in your sewing room for inspiration :)


Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Jalie 3022 Hack - Tie-Side Shorts by Dawn

Hi guys! It's Dawn, of Two On, Two Off, doin' a little guest blogging over at the Jalie blog. You knew it would happen eventually. I'm just waiting to get my Canadian citizenship so I can move into Jalie headquarters and be even more of a superfan. If they won't let me live there, I will be that creepy woman around the corner that asks for sugar at your door and then peeks around at the inside of your house. I'm sure they will love that . . .

Anyhoo, do you ever need some mind-numbing vegging time? On the computer? With Pinterest? I swear that site has caused several remodeling projects and several garments over the years. My husband has grown leary of my glassy-eyed admiration.

Me: Honey, what do you think about painting our bedroom Whispering Spring?
Honey Bear: Uh-huh.
Me: Ooooh, what about Quiet Moments?
Honey Man: What? Quiet what??
Me: You know, calm blue shades that will help us unwind. Ooooh, how about Beach Glass?
Him: *blink, blink*
Him: Oh crap, are you looking at Pinterest again?

Well this time I was not looking at paint. Instead I was flipping through the Jalie Inspiration photos. Have you seen those? They have inspiration photos and say, “Use Jalie XXXX and add length to make this summer cardigan.” I stumbled upon the Inspiration – Swimwear category and saw a few side gathered swim bottoms (go look, you know you want to). I knew if I added an inch or two of length, I would have a pair of cute running/summer shorts. So, voila, here you are. I wrote a little tutorial and everything. Aren’t you guys lucky?

First, you should know what I used for my base pattern. I used Jalie 3022 which is a yoga pants/shorts pattern. The pattern is available in both paper and PDF.
j_3022 


Okay, how cute are these shorts?? And really, they'd be cute even without the side detail.
j_3022_1



I love the little tie detail on the side!!
j_3022_4


j_3022_2

j_3022_5

j_3022_6


And, as promised a little tutorial for you! Toot! Toot!!
j_3022_3



Trace off your normal size for all the pieces, one front, two back pieces, two waistband pieces, and a waistband facing. Once you are done, add an EXTRA 1/2” seam allowance to the SIDE SEAMS of the front and back pieces. Be sure to transfer your notch marks to the new side seams. Don’t do anything to any other seams.
j_3022_8


j_3022_7



Cut out your fabric and sew the front and back together like this. You will be tempted to go ahead and sew your side seams too, DON’T.
j_3022_9




Sew your inseam. I always serge this and do an extra zigzag there just to provide some secondary clothing malfunction safety. Eep! While you are at it, hem your shorts. Your side seams are still not sewn.
j_3022_10
j_3022_11



NOW, you can sew your side seams, but DON’T SERGE THEM! REMEMBER you are sewing this at 3/4” seam allowance!!! Your original seam allowance was 1/4” and you added another 1/2” allowance! You want a straight stitch. Yes, I know these are knit. You can either stretch the fabric while you sew (like I did) or use the lightening stitch. You want those seam allowances to lie flat when you are done!
j_3022_12




Now, press those seam allowance open and sew them down. This creates a casing for your ties. I go from the inside and make sure my bobbin thread matches the outside. I used gray in the bobbin for my pair.
j_3022_13




Here’s your hem.
j_3022_14




This is what it looks like from the right side.
j_3022_15




Make some knit tubes and thread them through your casings.
j_3022_16




You want a little extra tube to stick out the top where you will attach it to the waistband.
j_3022_17




Sew the waistband together and attach it like normal to the top of the shorts. When you sew this at the side seams, this will close the casing and secure the ties in the waistband seam.
j_3022_18




From the inside. Yes, I use varigated thread in my serger loopers. :)
j_3022_19




From the outside.
j_3022_20




BOOM!
j_3022_6

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

4 Things to Know about Shipping

Your favorite retailer does not have the patterns you want on hand? You can order directly from us. We ship worldwide via Letter Mail (postal service) and Parcel services (Canada Post and UPS).

1 - Always enter your complete address

If you enter only a partial address, you will not see all options available and the quote might be incorrect.

Click anywhere on the page after entering the postal code to trigger a refresh of your shipping options

It is important that you enter not only the country, but also the state/province AND postal code in order for the shipping options to refresh.


2 - Use gift cards to get free or discounted shipping

We offer FREE SHIPPING on Canada / US orders $70 or more (international orders get a $20 discount). The thing is... you don't necessarily need 6 paper or PDF patterns that day.

To get to the $70 total, you can also use gift cards from you to you!

THREE PATTERNS ($39) + $40 GIFT CARD (to yourself) = ENOUGH FOR THE SHIPPING PROMO!  (you save $14.51 - not bad!)



If you always buy a gift card for the amount you need to reach a total of $70 you will never pay for shipping again! The gift cards are yours and never expire. Yes, buying a gift card means you "pre-pay" your future orders, but for many people, it is much better than paying for shipping :)

(By the way, this little trick may work on other websites too...)

3 - Choose the best shipping option for you

Here is a break down of the most popular options. Some are faster, some are cheaper...

Canada Post

EXPEDITED PARCEL (Canada)
Pros: Tracking, guaranteed delivery time, usually a bit faster than regular mail
Cons: More expensive than letter mail

AIR MAIL (US and International)
Pros: Reasonable price, 5-10 business days to all major cities, no customs
Cons: For 1-3 patterns only (500g max), no tracking

SMALL-PACKET (AIR) (US and International)
Pros: Usually the cheapest option, up to 2kg (8-14 patterns), 5-10 business days to all major cities
Cons: No tracking, no insurance (because no delivery confirmation), goes through customs (service fees may apply to collect VAT)

TRACKED PACKET (USA)
Pros: Usually the cheapest option, up to 2kg (8-14 patterns), 5-10 business days to all major cities, tracking, insurance
Cons: More expensive, goes through customs (service fees may apply to collect VAT)

XPRESSPOST (USA and International)
Pros: As fast as UPS, tracking, insurance, processing fees at customs may be less than UPS in some countries, no brokerage fees for US shipments
Cons: More expensive than UPS, still goes through customs (service fees may apply to collect VAT)


UPS (Canada)
Pros: As fast as Canada Post, more reliable in some areas. Next-day delivery available for some major cities.
Cons: More expensive than Canada Post in remote areas

UPS Standard (USA)
Pros: Usually a bit faster and cheaper than Canada Post / USPS
Cons: Brokerage fees on orders valued at $200 or more

UPS 3-day Select, Expedited, Saver, Express (USA)
Pros: Suuuuper fast, brokerage fees included, no surprises at delivery
Cons: More expensive

UPS Worldwide Expedited, Saver, Express (International)
Pros: Quick and reliable
Cons: Ships to less countries than Canada Post, fees will be charged upon delivery (check with UPS in your country to know exactly what they will charge you for brokerage and for paying the VAT on your behalf to clear customs)

4 - Avoid / minimize fees at delivery

INTERNATIONAL CUSTOMERS

UPS may charge brokerage fees and/or disbursement fees that can quickly add up to almost the full value of your pattern order! Before choosing UPS as your shipping option, we strongly recommend you check with them first to see if there is any way to avoid at least the disbursement fee.

In some countries, the postal service is the cheaper option overall. We never found all the import information for all countries gathered in one place, so Google, your local UPS office and postal service in your country is the best way to go to get that information.

We know that in France and Germany, the UPS fees are around 30 Euros for brokerage and disbursement. You know about the fees in your country? Please comment below. The more information everyone has, the better!

SALES TAXES

We charge GST only to orders shipping to Canada and QST (Quebec Sales Tax) to orders shipping to Quebec.

Depending on the value of your shipment, you may have to pay local taxes upon delivery (VAT in Europe for example). Some countries waive taxes on imports of smaller value, some others don't.

Sewing patterns are usually not subject to duty.

Please comment this post to share any information / experience about delivery by UPS or postal service in your country!


Friday, February 19, 2016

How to Print and Assemble your Jalie PDF Patterns

You successfully purchaseddownloaded and opened your Jalie PDF pattern in Adobe Reader or in your browser. You are now ready to print and assemble it.

1 - PRINT THE TEST PAGE FIRST

  • Locate the page where you see a TEST rectangle. 
  • Print (it can be an icon in your PDF viewer or browser or you might have to go through the File menu to select print) that page only. In the Éléonore Jeans PDF, the TEST rectangle is on page one, so we set the printing range to page 1 only:
Printing the test page // page range: 1, fit to page NOT selected

When printing, make sure that:
  • You print at 100% scale. The labels in your dialog window may vary:
    • FIT TO PAGE: NO (or unchecked)
    • PRINT AT ACTUAL SIZE: YES
    • SCALE = 100% 
  • You use a fast printing option, not high quality (to save ink)
  • You print on one side only
  • If your pattern is layered (the information in included in the instructions when they are), hide the layers you do not wish to print, to print your size only.

2 - MEASURE THE TEST RECTANGLE

  • If the measurements are ok:
    • Go ahead and print all the pages
  • If the rectangle is too big:
    • Change the scale to 99% or 98% until it is the right size
    • Print the other pages
  • If the rectangle is too small:
    • Change the scale to 101% or 102% until it is the right size
    • Print the other pages

3 - ASSEMBLE THE TILES

On each page, you will see a border with thick corners. That is the edge of your pattern TILE (which is 7 1/2'' x 10'' in order to print on both Letter and A4 paper).

Fold one margin and tape the sheet onto the next one, matching marks and pattern lines

A diagram on one of the first pages shows you how to position each tile.
  • Cut or fold the right margin of each page
  • Tape/glue the tiles together, matching the border lines and corners (to form a little diamond), inside pattern pieces
  • Work row by row, left to right
  • Cut/fold the bottom margin of row 1 and tape it to row 2. Repeat for the other rows
Trim bottom of row and tape it to the following row

Once your pattern is assembled, you can trace or cut it. Remember that you can print your PDF sewing pattern as many times as you need, once it is saved to your computer.

If you reached the download limit because you forgot to save / had trouble downloading / hit the button too many times because of slow connection, do not hesitate to contact us.

We are always there to help :)

Happy sewing!

Friday, January 15, 2016

How to Download your Jalie PDF Patterns

You purchased a PDF pattern on the Jalie website and are not sure how to download and print it? This blog post if for you!

HOW TO I GET TO THE DOWNLOAD PAGE?

All roads lead to Rome! Here are three easy ways to get to your PDF patterns:

1 - Immediately after you submit your order

Click the link in the confirmation message to go directly to the Download Page

Oops! You hit back, closed the window? The link is no longer there? No worries you can still download your patterns:

2 - Through your Jalie account

Click "My Downloadable Pattern" under the "My Account" tab or the link at the very bottom of the page to see the list of PDF Patterns linked to your account.
Drop-Down Menu in the upper-right corner of the screen.
If you are logged out, you will need to log in to see it.


Links in the footer section, on all pages of our website. Visible at all times (logged in or not)

3 - Through your email confirmation

In your order confirmation (you receive the email within seconds after placing your order), you will see the pattern you purchased with a link next to the file name (in blue). Those links will take you to the download page.

You may have to enter your login information if you have not been on the Jalie website for a while. Your credentials are the email and password you used at checkout.


I AM ON THE DOWNLOAD PAGE. WHAT DO I DO NOW?

The My Downloadable Patterns is where you will find all PDF purchases, grouped by order and listed by date (the most recent purchases first). You can see how many downloads you have left for each file.

When you click the download button, the PDF will open in your browser. Once it is open, you can save the file locally to print with Acrobat Reader.

Once the PDF pattern is saved to your computer, you can print it as many times as you need to. We strongly recommend you do not print from your browser and it sometimes affect quality and scale.

The buttons may be slightly different on your computer / browser. You might have to go to the File menu to save the PDF

Choose a location you will easily find afterwards. Go to that folder, open the PDF with Acrobat Reader and then you are ready to print and assemble your PDF pattern.

You can also save the PDF without opening it in your browser (useful for larger files like our cycling apparel pattern or men's pants pattern that are scans or the original patterns):

  1. Right-click on the download button
  2. Select "save target as..." or "save linked file as..."
  3. Choose location and save 

Quick and easy way to save the patterns to your computer.
After saving, locate the files, open and print as many times as needed.